( via SMS to David Lim)
Arrived at ABC in 6 hours today – completely knackered (David;s note: ABC is at 6500m, and a 21km hike from basecamp; and about 10 km from IC). Been resting in my tent popping ibuprofen for my nice headcahe. Pee bottle is frozen. It’s cold. Hope to feel better tomorrow after some rest. Resting pulse is 80. I am slow at acclimatising over 6000m. The fixed roped from the bottom of North Col have been fixed to 7900m ( David’s note: This is just above C3; and at the top of the north ridge. From here, the route swing northeast onto the broad slopes heading to the 8300m summit camp)
Next few days look windy up high..

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